Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Other wanderings in Paris

Notre Dame: If you ever took art history 101, then you have to go inside, and walk around the back exterior to see the flying buttresses. Climbing the stairs to see the gargoyles is up to you. If you're religious or a history buff, don't miss the reliquary. Also of note near Notre Dame are:
  • Sainte Chappelle, best visited on a sunny morning when the light hits these eastern facing, magnificent stained glass windows (Blvd du Palais);
  • I also like the flower market (Sundays it's also a bird market) at Place Louis Lepine. 
  • Make sure you cross the bridge over to the Ile de St Louis, and walk around (it’s 2 blocks long and wide) – watch the sunset from one of the cafes at the bridge.
Montmartre: I'm not so excited by the touristy Moulin Rouge nightclub aspect of Montmartre, but I do love the carousel below Sacre Couer, the view from Sacre Couer day or night, and the general glimpse into a residential neighborhood. They close the park/carrousel at night, so arrive before sunset. Take the Metro to Anvers, walk up Steinkerque (just follow the crowd) to the carousel at Place St Pierre. You can walk the parc steps or take the funicular on the left side of the hill. I’ve never had a problem, but be vigilant for pickpockets. Check out the views as well as the inside of Sacre Couer, then use the guidebook to navigate from the top down. The art market plaza is touristy, but then it gets quiet and residential quickly, and the walk is all downhill and pretty. Stick to the guidebook routes only because if you take the wrong turn down a hill, you'll have a hell of a climb back up.

St Germain des Pres: I like to take the metro to the Jardin du Luxembourg, walk over to the Pantheon, then head back down the hill to Cafe du Flore or Deux Magots for a leisurely nosh. You can use the guidebooks to find an interesting route or shops along the way, or just make a beeline down Rue Bonaparte. Dinner at Le Petit Zinc is highly recommended.

Latin Quarter: It’s crowded with tourists near Notre Dame, but there are some charming side streets to get lost in – I mostly head east, a block off the river. If you're a book lover, don't miss Shakespeare & Co.

Rue Montorgueil & Rue Mouffetard are two very different types of market strolls. Mouffetard is on the left bank, near the Luxembourg Gardens, and is more residential. It's a long downhill stroll past storefronts spilling over the sidewalk and into the cobbled street with their very specific wares: fish, cheese, meats, fruit, bread. It smells delicious - great place to assemble a picnic. Montorgueil is on the other side of the Seine, on the north side of Les Halles, and it's a more bustling urban business with vendors sharing sidewalks with cafes. Some of the vendors are a little more high end, which makes this foodie stroll a great place to pick up gifts.

Opera Quarter: It’s been a long time since I toured the Opera, but if you like that kind of thing, it’s cool. Then wander over to the foodie/chic shops like Fauchon and Laduree around Place de la Madeleine.

Pere Lachaise cimitierre is prettiest in spring, but if you're curious...go! If you just want to see Jim Morrison's grave, you can enter/exit at Phillipe Auguste metro. But, honestly, that's the least interesting part of the cemetery and it's an uphill climb to the more interesting part of the cemetery – so I recommend taking the Metro to Gambetta and entering from that side of the cemetery (ask the guard shack for a map) and stroll DOWN the hill from Oscar Wilde to Jim Morrison, and exiting near Phillipe Auguste metro.

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