Shaklee 2013 Paris Trip Advice

Congratulations to all the hard-working Shaklee people who, simply by sharing what they love about Shaklee, earned the Shaklee International Luxury trip to Paris this fall.  They each earned first-class tickets for two to Paris for a week at the Westin Place Vendome, including a private after-hours tour of the Louvre.  Since Shaklee picks up the tab for the trip, a lot of my usual Paris-penny-pinching advice won't be needed for those folks, so this post is specific to their stay.

This advice still applies:

• My must-see/do list. 
• My favorite walk in all of Paris.
• My other favorite walk.
• Other sights and walks I love.
• Restaurant recommendations - both splurgy and simple. 

Specific to your stay and neighborhood:

Les Bateaux Mouches

Paris sunset cruise, © 2012, Joan Klau

I strongly recommend taking a bateau mouche tour along the Seine a) on your first night to orient yourself, and b) at or just past sunset to truly appreciate why Paris is called the City of Light. The sun sets late in Paris (9:30p in early May), so eat dinner first (sit outside to enjoy the golden hour light bouncing off buildings and filtering through the plane trees), then stroll along the river to your bateau mouche. Every hour on the hour, the Eiffel Tower does a 2 minute light show, so time your ride accordingly. Fair warning: in warm weather, students like to hang out, drink and sing along the riverbanks from Notre Dame east, so you may get flashed.

There are several companies that run river cruises, and some offer dinner cruises. I've only done the Bateaux Mouches down at Pont d’Alma because they run the latest rides, but it requires a cab ride there, and a long walk up to either the Metro or a long line for a cab home. Next time I’m in Paris, I’m going to try the Vedettes du Pont-Neuf, which have a much more convenient location, and cheapest fares.

Paris restaurants

If you can’t make reservations online, I find it’s worth having the hotel receptionist calling ahead for you.  My never-fail happy places:

View from the Jules Verne restaurant. 
Note the observation deck below. 

• Do not miss getting the l'africain (hot chocolate) at La Maison Angelina, near the Louvre/Tuileries.
• Le Petit Zinc is a lovely Art Deco bistro in Saint-Germain-des-Prés with delicious food, including gorgeous fruits de mer platters.
• Bofinger Brasserie – reserve a table online and ask to sit under the dome, which is stained glass. At the Bastille end of the Marais.
• If you want to splurge, one of the best meals of my life was at the Jules Verne restaurant at the Eiffel Tower. The food, service, views – all amazing. After dining, you can skip the long lines and take the private stairs down to the observation deck, and then come back and take the private elevator down – or ride down on the public elevator. Fair warning: it’s super expensive, even for lunch – so check the menu/prices online before you go. I recommend lunch for the views, and (slightly) cheaper prices. You must reserve online in advance. 

 Casual dining in the Marais:

• Au Petit Fer au Cheval – it’s worth fighting for room at the zinc bar or a table out front, for a slice of Tarte Tatin and champagne, but if it’s too crowded, you can go next door to…
• Les Philosophes is next to Le Petit Fer au Cheval
• Le Bouledogue is a good neighborhood brasserie, with – you guessed it – a bulldog motif.
• Le Cavalier Bleu is a café overlooking the Pompidou Centre. They had an inexpensive but VERY good cheese and pate assortment worth asking for - the cheese plate, and the meat plate are listed clearly - but the combination "assortiment" is a little hidden on the back of the menu - or just ask: avez vous un assortiment du fromage et pate? They do. That and a glass of wine is a good way to unwind/people watch/fortify yourself for more.

At some point, somewhere, treat yourself to a street crepe. To me, crepe stands are the French equivalent of a hot dog stand - but way more delicious. Ham and cheese for a cheap lunch, or nutella for a snack - either way, it's the perfect pick me up when you're out and about. I like to grab one anywhere leaving the Latin Quarter, and park myself in the Notre Dame plaza and people watch.

Generally, it's cheaper to order food "à emporter" (to go) then to sit and eat it. But sometimes, the view makes it worth the premium. For example, when you visit Notre Dame, be sure to walk around the back of the exterior to see the famous flying buttresses, then cross over the bridge to Ile St Louis. When you get off the bridge, you'll see three cafes - the one to the right offers Berthillon ice cream to go for a couple of euros, but if you order the same ice cream from table service, you'll pay three times the price. However, this spot has such an incredible view of sunset over Notre Dame and the Seine, that a cup of coffee or glass of wine is an acceptably cheap and cheerful way to enjoy the view. If when you're done, you still want ice cream, get it around the corner at the original Berthillon shop, which offers more flavors.

My favorite Paris walk

Place de la Concorde, Paris © 2012, Joan Klau

My favorite Paris walk is from Notre Dame, past the Louvre, through the Jardin des Tuileries (stop at La Musee de l'Orangerie as you exit), toward the Champs de L'Elysee. There are plenty of detours to recommend (Frommer's 24 Great Walks in Paris covers a lot of this terrain with good details) but I like to do this walk on my first day just to get my bearings, and then go back another day for the detours outlined below.

At the Place de la Concorde end of the Tuileries, walk up the ramp on left toward La Musee de l'Orangerie and take pictures like this down the Seine toward the Eiffel Tower. This is one of my favorite views of Paris.  If you only get this far, then you have completed my favorite walk and my work here is done.

From here, you have several options (you can of course stop and do these other options another day):

Cold/hungry? Stop in at Maison Angelina for the world's best hot chocolate (l'africain). It may look a little hoity toity, but it's not: the wait staff is equally friendly to blue-haired ladies who lunch and tired tourists. They also have other tasty bites - big and small, depending on your appetite. Delicious pastries - or I had an incredibly good nicoise salad there. Best way to get there is to exit the Jardin at the fountain and cross Rue de Rivoli – it’s #226 Rue de Rivoli. If you are done for the day, the Metro is conveniently located across the street.

Refreshed and ready for more walking? Go back through the Jardins to the Place de la Concorde and continue straight across on the Champs d'Elysee without getting killed by the motorists. You can do it! On the north side of the Champs d'Elysee, look for the park path (not the sidewalk next to the traffic) - much prettier views. When you get to Avenue de Marigny, you have several choices:

• Turn left across the Champs d'Elysee, walking between le Petit Palais and le Grand Palais (they sometimes have interesting exhibits), over the Seine to visit Napoleon's tomb in L'Hopital des Invalides (watch people playing boules on the sides of the parc). From here, you can:

• Catch the Metro to St Germain des Pres and rest your bones at a cafe.
• Walk to the Musee Rodin, then on to a café in St Germain des Pres.

• Continue straight on the Champs d'Elysee to Arc de Triomphe, which offers a well-worth-it view of the city layout and Paris traffic mayhem.  To get there:
• Either continue walking through the upscale shopping district of the Champs d'Elysee (it's like Union Square, but stretched out down one long slightly uphill boulevard) to the Arc de Triomphe.
• Or if you want to skip the shops, catch the Metro at Marigny to the Arc de Triomphe.

• Turn right and wander bustling city streets and parcs like a local.  Do NOT cross the Place de la Concorde - instead turn right out of the park, and take Rue St Florentin across Rue de Rivoli - turn right on Rue St Honore. You'll pass Place du Vendome, and eventually end up at the back end of Les Halles (turn left on Rue du Louvre). The east end of Les Halles is now mostly a teen-infested shopping arcade, but the jardins are pretty: on Rue St Honore, turn left on Rue du Louvre and wander the northern side of the park. Rue Rambuteau borders the northern side of Les Halles (detour up rue Montorgeuil for great outdoor markets and shops) and if you continue along it, you'll end up at Centre Pompidou, the industrial-looking modern art museum. If you are tired/hungry, I recommend Le Cavalier Bleu on the NW corner of the plaza overlooking the Pompidou.

Had enough? Catch the Metro (Tuileries stop) back to your hotel.

sunset from Île Saint-Louis

le coin de bonheur et détente © 2012, Joan Klau

The west end of the Île Saint-Louis has several cafes all facing the back side of Notre Dame, and is a great place to rest while watching sunset after walking the Marais, the Latin Quarter or Île de la Cité.  This photo is NOT that view, but the very charming view of all the cafes on that corner.  It's a reminder:  while gawking at the sights, just remember to occasionally turn around and admire the full 360 degrees of the experience.  

From here, you could do the reverse of my favorite walk through the Marais, or cross to the Left Bank and wander the Latin Quarter. 

Pont de l'Archevêché

Pont de l'Archevêché

Pont de l'Archevêché

Pont de l'Archevêché

Le Marais: my favorite place to wander

I highly recommend the Marais as a neighborhood to stay in because it not only gives you a nice glimpse into everyday city life, but it's also a great neighborhood to walk around. You'll shop, you'll eat, you'll see art, history, people, cobbled streets and mansard rooftops.  One of my favorite things to do is get up early, go get a croissant from a bakery like a local, get Starbucks to go (it flags me as a tourist, which is why I immediately hustle it back to my hotel room), and sit on my hotel's tiny balcony to watch the neighborhood wake up.

The Marais is one of the few and certainly most central Parisian neighborhood that did not get the Hausmann street makeover, which means the streets remain narrow, cobbled and a little jumbled.  Some "sights" in the neighborhood:

• The Picasso Museum (closed until 2013)
• The National Archives is now housed in what was the palace Louis XIV built for his married mistress (how her husband didn't notice his wife's new digs, I don't know) - I've never gone in so I can't vouch for the contents, but at least poke your head in while walking by.
• Rue des Rosiers - heart of Jewish life, tasty foods, interesting shops
• Place des Vosges - very pretty park, good for picnicking
• Centre Pompidou - Say what you will about the exterior, but inside is a great modern art museum and outside it is ringed by cafes, which makes for lovely people watching. 

There are so many hidden gems throughout the Marias, it's best to let yourself get lost for a few hours.  But, here's a suggested tour and map of the neighborhood sights:

• From the Hotel de Ville metro at the intersection of Rue de Rivoli and Rue de Renard, walk 2 blocks west on Rue de Rivoli.  
• Turn right on Rue Saint Martin.
• In 3 blocks, turn right on Rue du Cloitre Saint Martin - halfway down this block, it opens up onto La Place Igor Stravinsky and behind it, the Pompidou. But stop and enjoy the water fountains/statues and murals in La Place first.
• The Pompidou - go in if you like (I do), or just discuss the architecture. If you haven't visited the cafe mentioned above, it's on the NW corner of the Pompidou plaza.
• If it's too early to consider wine and cheese, it's probably the perfect time for a croissant. So, the north boundary of the Pompidou plaza is Rue Rambuteau - turn right (east) on Rambuteau and, after crossing Beauborg, look for the patisserie on the left and buy the most delicious croissants/pain au chocolates. If you need coffee, there is a Starbucks coming up in 2 blocks of this tour. Regardless, eat your warm croissant while walking down Rambuteau. 
• On the northeast corner of Rambuteau and Rue des Archives, peek your head into the National Archives grounds (see story above), then cut kitty corner across the intersection so you are heading south (toward the Seine) on Rue des Archives. 
• On the first block, on the right, is Jadis et Gourmande, a lovely chocolate shop with good gifty chocolates. 
• If you like beads (or know someone who does), there is an amazing bead shop across the street from Jadis et Gourmande. 
• If you need Starbucks, it's on Rue des Archives, just a half block past Rue Sainte-Croix-de-Bretonnerie. If you want your coffee to go, ask for “le café a emporter.”  Just know it immediately flags you as a tourist to walk around with it, so ditch it as soon as possible (there are loads of garbage cans around - don't litter!).
• Back at Rue Sainte-Croix-de-Bretonerie, head east. If you are returning from Starbucks, that means turning RIGHT on SCB. If you didn't go to Starbucks, then turn LEFT here. There are lots of interesting shops:
• Photography fan? Stop in at the Lomography store. 
• If you want an authentic chapeau, duck into Les Canotiers du Marais. 
• If you like tea, duck down Rue de Bourg Tibourg to the world-famous tea shop, Marriage des Freres. There is a tea salon in the back if you'd like to have a cup of tea, or you can just peruse the shop in front and smell. Excellent gifts for tea lovers.

Hôtel des Ambassadeurs, #47 Rue Vieille-du-Temple, © 2012, Joan Klau

• Back to SCB, continue east until you dead-end onto Rue du Vielle Temple - make note of the Au Petit Fer du Cheval - return later for dinner or at least a snack of tarte tatin.
• Turn left on Vielle du Temple and cruise up to Rue des Francs Bourgeouis - it's just a pretty little intersection, that's all. On your way to Rue des FB, on the left side of the street, look for the wooden doors with carved Medusa heads - take your picture in front of them. 
• Now, reverse direction on VdT and take your third left onto Rue des Rosiers - heart of the Jewish quarter, and home to many tasty treats (every guidebook has tons of suggestions - if you like fallafel, L'As du Fallafel is famous). When you get to the end of Rue des Rosiers, you have two choices: 

• Continue on to Place des Vosges, pretty parc-like plaza with cafes/shops, and end up at Place de Bastille, where we can recommend dinner at the Brasserie Bofinger. To get to Place des Vosges, turn left on Rue Pavee near the end of Rue des Rosier, then right on Rue des Francs Bourgeois, and walk 2.5 blocks. To get to Bofinger/Bastille Metro, exit Place des Vosges at the south end of the park onto Rue de Birague, and turn left on Rue St Antoine. St Antoine dead ends at Place de la Bastille where you'll find the Metro - but if you want Bofinger, take the 2nd left off St Antoine onto Rue des Tournelles, and then your first right onto Rue de la Bastille - the Brasserie is on the left. 
• Or you can turn back to wander closer to the Seine for sunset - there are tons of cute little streets to get lost or shop on. One of my favorites is the cobblestone Rue des Barres: if you're walking down VdT, turn right at Rue Francois Miron, and it will be the first alley on your left. It's a little hilly, so it's easier to walk down it - just make sure you stop often to admire the view in ALL directions. 

If you need a snack to tide you over until dinner, stop at Au Petit Fer du Cheval for tarte tatin and a beverage, or head back to the Cavalier Bleu at the Pompidou plaza for wine and cheese:

• From Au Petit Fer, go south (left) down Vielle du Temple, across Pont Louis Phillipe which puts you on Ile St Louis looking at the back of Notre Dame.
• From Pompidou, you can catch the Rambuteau Metro to the Latin Quarter if you're tired, or just walk straight down Beauborg, which turns into Renard and drops you in front of Notre Dame plaza. 

Definitely walk along the Seine to see the back of the church. Depending on how your legs are holding up, it's worth crossing the bridge connecting Notre Dame to the Ile St Louis, a tiny (4 block) island. If you are feeling weary, you can either rest up in Notre Dame plaza, or fortify yourself for the 15 minute walk around the island at any one of the cafes right at the bridge. If you want some cute/modern souvenirs, there's a nice shop on Rue Jean du Bellay - practically next door to Brasserie de L'Ile St Louis. 

Other wanderings in Paris

Notre Dame: If you ever took art history 101, then you have to go inside, and walk around the back exterior to see the flying buttresses. Climbing the stairs to see the gargoyles is up to you. If you're religious or a history buff, don't miss the reliquary. Also of note near Notre Dame are:

• Sainte Chappelle, best visited on a sunny morning when the light hits these eastern facing, magnificent stained glass windows (Blvd du Palais);
• I also like the flower market (Sundays it's also a bird market) at Place Louis Lepine. 
• Make sure you cross the bridge over to the Ile de St Louis, and walk around (it’s 2 blocks long and wide) – watch the sunset from one of the cafes at the bridge.

Montmartre: I'm not so excited by the touristy Moulin Rouge nightclub aspect of Montmartre, but I do love the carousel below Sacre Couer, the view from Sacre Couer day or night, and the general glimpse into a residential neighborhood. They close the park/carrousel at night, so arrive before sunset. Take the Metro to Anvers, walk up Steinkerque (just follow the crowd) to the carousel at Place St Pierre. You can walk the parc steps or take the funicular on the left side of the hill. I’ve never had a problem, but be vigilant for pickpockets. Check out the views as well as the inside of Sacre Couer, then use the guidebook to navigate from the top down. The art market plaza is touristy, but then it gets quiet and residential quickly, and the walk is all downhill and pretty. Stick to the guidebook routes only because if you take the wrong turn down a hill, you'll have a hell of a climb back up.

St Germain des Pres: I like to take the metro to the Jardin du Luxembourg, walk over to the Pantheon, then head back down the hill to Cafe du Flore or Deux Magots for a leisurely nosh. You can use the guidebooks to find an interesting route or shops along the way, or just make a beeline down Rue Bonaparte. Dinner at Le Petit Zinc is highly recommended.

Latin Quarter: It’s crowded with tourists near Notre Dame, but there are some charming side streets to get lost in – I mostly head east, a block off the river. If you're a book lover, don't miss Shakespeare & Co.

Rue Montorgueil & Rue Mouffetard are two very different types of market strolls. Mouffetard is on the left bank, near the Luxembourg Gardens, and is more residential. It's a long downhill stroll past storefronts spilling over the sidewalk and into the cobbled street with their very specific wares: fish, cheese, meats, fruit, bread. It smells delicious - great place to assemble a picnic. Montorgueil is on the other side of the Seine, on the north side of Les Halles, and it's a more bustling urban business with vendors sharing sidewalks with cafes. Some of the vendors are a little more high end, which makes this foodie stroll a great place to pick up gifts.

Opera Quarter: It’s been a long time since I toured the Opera, but if you like that kind of thing, it’s cool. Then wander over to the foodie/chic shops like Fauchon and Laduree around Place de la Madeleine.

Pere Lachaise cimitierre is prettiest in spring, but if you're curious...go! If you just want to see Jim Morrison's grave, you can enter/exit at Phillipe Auguste metro. But, honestly, that's the least interesting part of the cemetery and it's an uphill climb to the more interesting part of the cemetery – so I recommend taking the Metro to Gambetta and entering from that side of the cemetery (ask the guard shack for a map) and stroll DOWN the hill from Oscar Wilde to Jim Morrison, and exiting near Phillipe Auguste metro.

Paris outdoor food markets

When you go to Paris, you owe it to yourself to visit at least one food market, and assemble a picnic to enjoy in one of Paris’ many beautiful parks.

Rue Mouffetard is a long hill of shops with stalls spilling out over the curb.  I recommend starting at the top (nearest metro: Place Monge) and then take the long lazy walk down (south on Mouffetard toward). The nearby Luxembourg Gardens are stunningly beautiful, and a perfect place for your market picnic.

Rue Montorgueil has more cafes sprinkled in between the shops, so it has a little more of a see and be seen vibe. I highly recommend reading David Lebovitz's tour of the market (in fact, I highly recommend his blog in general for advice about visiting/living in Paris). Couple of notable shops I loved:

• L'Atelier du Chocolat - really good chocolate with interesting flavors, options. Good for gifts or nibbles while you walk. 
• G. Detou - if you like to bake, open your wallet here. Good for gifts too. 
• Stohrer claims to be the oldest patisserie in Paris. Try not to drool. 
• E. DeHellerin is nearby.  If you like to cook, make the detour to see their insane range of cooking supplies, including beautiful copper cookware in the basement, as well as other kitchen odds and ends.  Take a tour with Kevin Sharkey and before you go, read David Lebovitz's advice about shopping there. 

I always visit the Marché aux Fleurs near Notre Dame.  There's an amazing orchid shop on the northeast corner of the market, and on Sundays, it's also a bird market.  Also, I'm sort of in love with the entrance to the nearest Metro, Cité. 

Paris galeries (where the art is shopping)

In Paris, a galerie means an arcade, a uniquely Parisian architectural and shopping gem housing a collection of boutiques in the center of a city block, hidden behind an iron gate and kept dry under a glass arcade ceiling. It's worth googling “Paris galeries” to see some options.

One result you’re sure to get is Galeries Lafayette which is Paris’ biggest and most famous department store with a gorgeous stained glass ceiling. IMHO, it’s worth dropping in to see the rotunda’s ceiling and people watch, but I’m more interested in the much more charming, intimate old school galeries with interesting boutiques and cafes.

During filming, our guide took us to Galerie Vivienne, a registered landmark with a lovely wine bar, café, candy shop, antique bookstore, hat shop, women’s and men’s clothing, and a charming gift shop.

Paris museum tips

If you’re going to see more than one museum, it’s well worth buying the Paris Museum Pass.  Not only is it cost-efficient, but many of the museums have pass-holder lines that may not be well-marked, but always MUCH shorter and worth asking for. You can buy the Pass at major metro/train stations, Paris Information kiosks (there's one outside Notre Dame), or at a museum (I get mine at Musee de L’Orangerie, where the line is usually short).

• The Louvre is open late on Wednesdays and Friday at a reduced rate. Go then, or go first thing in the am AND use your pass to skip the line at the pyramid entrance.  Instead use the "secret" museum pass entrance in the Richelieu Wing:  assuming you took the Metro to Palais Royal/Musee du Louvre, exit and face the Louvre, cross Rue de Rivoli and turn LEFT and walk along Rivoli until you encounter a gated archway - the entrance is on the right under the arch. Most people walk through this archway to the pyramid and never notice the museum entrance on the right, but there it is: brass stanchions, velvet rope, glass security booth. Flash your pass at the security guard and he'll wave you in. You can always have your pyramid experience as you exit the museum, but the lines to get in can be horrendous. The Richelieu entrance is insanely fast.
• The D’Orsay pass entrance is to the right, around the corner, of the main entrance.
• Musee Rodin is a good pit stop between Napoleon's tomb (Hotel des Invalides) and a St Germain des Pres cafe. If you're not up for the whole museum tour, you can just swing through the pretty sculpture garden. 
• The Picasso Museum makes a good excuse to visit the Marais, but is sadly closed until 2013 for renovations.  
• Have I mentioned lately how much I love Musee de l'Orangerie?  Read more about why here.